Thursday, March 31, 2011

Far from taxes, television and obligation

San Pedro, Lake Atitlán, Guatemala

I'm loving this place! I'm in San Pedro, one of the small towns around Lake Atitlán. It's a beautiful little Mayan town surrounded by mountains and volcanos. The weather is perfect and the atmosphere is chilled. Or 'tranqui tranqui' as the locals would call it.

I feel like I'm getting a good insight in the culture here. I'm studying spanish for a week and living with a Mayan family. It's such an amazing experience! My family is huge, actually it's like two families in one plus relatives that come and go so it's a bit confusing at times. They're so friendly though and I love their little daughter Náshila, she's so cute I want to eat her. The only problem though is that they speak the native language Tzu'tujil with each other, and spanish only with me. But it's still very interesting and they've even taught me a few words. Today I tried making tortillas with my mayan mama. Apparently it's not nearly as easy as it looks.

Every morning I wake up to the sound of roosters crowing and hens cackling outside my window. And the breakfast is usually accompanied by the school choir singing a morning hymn. And by the iron stove my mayan mama is making tortillas. It's a very special and different way to start the day. It keeps your mind far away from taxes, television and obligation.

The culture here is so different from back home. Especially for women. I've been talking a lot to my teacher Elena about womens situation here. It's forbidden to have sex before marriage here and a man can tell if a woman is a virgin or not. (Obviously). Elena got married at 17 and had no idea what sex was before that. Neither did she know what menstruation was and when she got her first period she freaked out and thought she was sick. Her mom calmed her down and told her that she was now a woman and that she couldn't hug or even hold a boys hand, because if she did - she could die. (!) What are you supposed to believe when your own mother tells you that at the age of 11? Now she's 27, has two lovely kids and is still living with her husband. The problem is she's not happy with him and wants to leave him. But a divorce would be impossible here. They've promised each other to stay together "until death do us part". And that's how it has to be. She would be completely unaccepted in this town if she left him. To me that's just unreal and incredibly sad. Tomorrow is my last day at school, and I'm thinking... Maybe she could fit in my backpack...?



Just another normal lunch with the family (tap pacham)


View from my "classroom"


Elena teaching me how to use the (fucking) 'subjuntivo'


Eating a so called tostada with guacamole & chicken for less than 50 cents.


Some friends from school jumping off cliffs in San Marcos


Such a lovely day on the lake!


View from the kitchen








My Mayan mama making tortillas. She does it 2-3 times a day!


With Olga and Náshila





Gang violence starts at an early age in Guatemala.

Wednesday, March 16, 2011

Yow ha-blow espan-yowl

Antigua, Guatemala

I've just signed up for a week of spanish studies with homestay and I have a good feeling about it. Moving in with my family tomorrow. Exciting stuff!

Antigua is such a pretty town. With it's colonial buildings, cobblestone streets, pastel colored houses and Mayan culture it's like a dream come true for a photographer. I spent all day just walking around taking pictures.

What worries me though is the fact that - according to the law - all bars must close at 1am here. Apparently it's the same throughout the country. I suppose it's good for the studies though. Then again the time when I practice my spanish the most is when I'm drunk... Actually, speaking of practicing, I should get started. - Hola ladies night at Monoloco, hola 50 cent drinks, me llamo Emelia. Salud!





















Monday, March 14, 2011

Are you pissed or mental?

Quetzaltenango (Xela), Guatemala

Hello and welcome to the coldest and grayest city around! It's raining and I'm sick. I suffer from the lovely yet fairly rare combination of diarrhea and altitude sickness. Quite delightful. Been sleeping with my jacket on and triple blankets three nights in a row now. So yeah, it's all good. Anyway, moving on to Antigua tomorrow which is situated a little bit lower and hopefully it'll be warmer there.

These last two weeks have been awesome though. Been traveling with RayRay and Benji boy, from Mexico City to Oaxaca, down to the pacific coast and back up to the highlands of San Cristobal de las Casas. And it's been nothing short of spectacular. My favorite place was definitely Mazunte on the coast. It's a wonderful and incredibly chill beach town just south of the more touristy and exploited Puerto Escondido. We stayed in a cool little cabin up on a hill overlooking the sea. Watching the sunrise from a hammock up there was pretty intense. Going out after dark you had to bring a flashlight. For example if you wanted to go down to the center which was basically just one short strip with a few restaurants and bars. We went out one night and had some delicious pizzas and enjoyed live music, but mostly we would just hang out in our cabin playing cards and smoking weed. The owner had two dogs that followed us everywhere we went. We were like a big family, me, Ray, Ben, the dogs Dawn and Tinsley and the cat Kalle (not their real names). Fabulous times! When we left, Dawn and Tinsley followed us down to the center, sat by our table while we had lunch and tried to get in to our taxi when we were about to leave. Looking out through the back window we saw them running after the car as we took off. I nearly cried. True story.

Zipolite was also a very cool town. We stayed at a hostel right on the beach and spent most of the time in the hammocks and also had some great food. I liked San Cristobal as well. A pretty town up in the mountains with a beautful market. I did my first shopping there on this trip. Can you imagine that? I hadn't bought anything in more than a month, not even a pair of earrings.

I'm gonna stop boring you with text now and let you look at the pictures. (As if you didn't look at them before reading).



Market in Oaxaca, Mexico


Someones been in the sun too long. Puerto Escondido.


Sunset in Mazunte


Tinsley!


Sunrise from a hammock


Our lovely home


Are you pissed or mental?


Ben likes playing soggy biscuit with himself


Breakfast in our cabin


Me & Kalle


Sunset in Zipolite


That's a fish!


Just... Checkin that.


Just another normal day in Zipolite


Defenaaately my size


San Cristobal de Las Casas, Mexico


Aww, last night with the Brent Crew


To me they're not mutually exclusive.

Oh, by the way, my nicknames are now Milo, Emilio, Esteves or simply just This little lady (Office quote)