Wednesday, June 15, 2011

Sun is shining and so is life!

Caye Caulker, Belize

"Go slow" is the motto and lifestyle on this incredibly beautiful paradise island off Belize. I've been here for ten days now and been planning on leaving for the last five. But the relaxing vibe here seems to make it impossible. It really doesn't take long to get used to this lazy beach life.

Days here consist of making as little effort as possible. For example; lie on the beach, lie in a hammock, lie in bed and go to the store when you're out of beer. We've also had some serious family dinners at the hostel and some great parties. So great that even people from the club next door came over to see what the fuss was about. I sincerely love this place.

Last week we went on a fullday snorkeling tour which was absolutely amazing. It's the second biggest reef in the world, still I was surprised by the variety of creatures we got to see. We spotted stingrays, nurse sharks, sea turtles, manatee (sea cow), baracudas, jelly fish, huge lobsters etc etc. Definitely the best snorkeling I've ever done. Included lunch and rum punch. 40 bucks well spent.

After my first crazy days in Hopkins (see previous post) I finally managed to leave. I went to Dangriga, one of the bigger (and less appealing) cities further north where I met some cool guys from Denver. They talked me into coming with them on a day trip to Tobaco Caye which normally would have been out of my budget. But I'm glad I decided to go. It's a really beautiful but tiny island dotted with palm trees, a couple of bars and a few places to stay. And there's literally nothing to do but relax. After we had walked around the island which didn't take more than five minutes, we spent the rest of the day drinking rum and coke and listening to reggae on the beach. We ended the trip with an hour of snorkeling (which was quite interesting after those drinks) before we headed back to Dangriga. We also got a taste of the Garífuna culture including Garífuna drumming and punta dancing. Wow, these women (and men!) know how to shake it!

Before I came here I though Belize was going to be very americanized with expensive resorts and hordes of tourists. I've definitely been proven wrong. Down south there were hardly any tourists at all and it's not that expensive. People are so friendly and have a special positive energy that is just wonderful to be around. When I was in Hopkins everyone I met said hello or good morning. Men, women, children and adults. In most latin american countries 95% of the people who greet you are men, and it's not always in a nice way. But in Belize I've mostly had good experiences with the people I've met. Here on the island it's a bit different though, probably because of the tourism. As a girl you get a lot of comments from sleazy guys such as "Hey baby, how you doin? Can I be your date tonight?" or "Damn mama you look hot tonight. Come talk to me for a sec, I ain't gonna hurt you" or my personal favorite: "Baby, I don't know what it is about you, but you special girl". Five minutes later you would hear them say the same thing to another girl. After ten days here you might see how that gets old. Sadly it has to work on some, otherwise they wouldn't do it. Most people are just trying to be friendly though. The problem is how to distinguish them.

I was lucky to meet two Swedes on The National Day of Sweden (6/6) and I probably celebrated more than most Swedes did. We don't celebrate our national day because apparently it's considered racist, soo... Jante law for the win? Actually most people just can't be bothered, because Swedes are generally pretty boring. Lovely, but boring. So I'm proud to tell you that I sang both the national anthem, Helan går and Små grodorna - including the dance moves.

Now if you'll excuse me, I have to get back to the hammock.

Seremei.

PS. I epically failed trying to choose just a few pictures.



Lovely Hopkins!
My homeboys
Chillin on the dock
Lovely Jessie who talked me into staying in Hopkins. He changed my whole Belize experience.
Eating the traditional dish hudut (paste made of plantain) and fish soup
Typical Caribbean house
Hopkins by night
Dancing to Punta music with the Denverians in Dangriga
Shake it, Granma!
This is Tobaco Caye

-----

Welcome to Caye Caulker. Beware of awesomeness and remember to go slow.
Snorkeling with nurse sharks. Just another normal day.


Stayed up til sunrise
Three kittens at the hostel. All I can say is...Mooschnimooo!
Family dinner at the hostel

Chris, Jacob and the owner Jeff. (And the kitten Whitesocks)
Me and Fat Rodger

Yah rasta man




Lobster season started today!

Seremei Belize. I will never forget you. Bless. ♥

Thursday, June 2, 2011

Anything but ordinary!

Hopkins, Belize

Wow.
My first days in Belize have been anything but ordinary...
Did a border crossing with a drunk/hungover British girl who kept throwing up. Had to hitchhike to get into Hopkins. Met a really weird American "multi-artist" who called me 'baby' and claimed to be really famous in the states. Saw a naked man singing. Tried to leave Hopkins, again by hitchhiking. Got talked into staying by some random rasta dudes. Made garifuna food with them in a shack without electricity in the middle of nowhere. Smoked weed with a policeman. Lost both my credit cards, at the same time. Had a weird old man rub babyoil on my back. Stayed in a dorm room made for 14 people, all alone. Poured boiling water on my feet. Got my credit cards back. Missed the last bus. Checked in at the hostel for the third time. And here I am, holding a piece of ice on my toes, wondering what the fuck just happened.

...And I'm not even on drugs!

Monday, May 30, 2011

I ♥ Aguacatemala

Livingston, Guatemala

It's my last day in Guatemala and it feels a bit strange. I came here two and a half months ago thinking I would stay about 3-4 weeks. I was gonna be in Cancun (Mexico) by the 15th of April. That didn't happen. What did happen was I started living pretty much like a local, staying with families or friends, eating street food or cooking myself. That's gonna change now as I move on to Belize. No more cellphone, no more living with friends, no more Spanish, no more Gallo (local beer), no more "jocotes a quetzal a mano", no more "si va vos". Sigh.
I might as well admit it. I've done it again. I've fallen for a country. Just like I fell for Costa Rica more than a year ago. When will I ever learn?

I am really excited as well though, otherwise I wouldn't be leaving. Different people, different food, different culture. Will be moving pretty fast through Belize since it's supposedly very expensive, up to Mexico and from Cancun I'll fly to Cuba which I'm really excited about! But most of all I'm excited about moving, being on my way, going somewhere. Searching for something without knowing what.

No sé cuando volveré
No sé donde llegaré

No sé que me encontraré

Pero no importa


Hasta luego, mi Guate! ♥

Friday, May 27, 2011

Living stoned in Livingston

Livingston, Guatemala

At the time of writing I'm enjoying an ice cold frappuccino on a restaurant overlooking the turquoise Caribbean ocean. It's humid and incredibly hot. The sun is strong and I try my best to stay away from it. Long colorful wooden boats are passing by in a slow pace. On the stereo Bob Marley is playing "Stir it up" and the smell of sea water, weed and pescado (fish) fills the air.
Get the picture?

I'm in the laid-back beach town Livingston on the Caribbean coast, right on the border to Belize and Honduras. I've been away from the ocean for so long that I haven't realized how much I've actually missed it. I just need to be close to the water. It somehow makes it easier to breath and relax. For example this is the first time I've had inspiration to write in a long time.

Being Guatemalas only destination on the Caribbean coast that's worth visiting, it's doomed to be a touristy spot. However there's always a way to get around the tourist traps if you know where to look and are willing to make the effort. As far as I'm concerned I'm just glad to be back on the coast.

I'm staying at the craziest party hostel ever - Casa de la Iguana. It's great fun but maybe not very healthy. Happy hour and drinking games with free shots for the winners is on the menu daily. Yesterday we were woken up, fairly hungover at 12:15, by one of the staff members shouting "Good morning guys! It's time to wake up and start drinking!". That kind of sets the standard. I'm sleeping in a hammock here to save money. 20 quetzales a night (about $2,50 or 16 kr). Totally worth it. I know what you're thinking: malaria and dengue fever? There's actually barely any mosquitos here at all. Although there's tons (tons!) of sandflies. I've been taught a trick to keep them away though - baby oil! The oil is too thick for them to get through so you can continue zipping on your piña colada (or down it) without worrying.

What's less enjoyable is that I've gotten a heat rash all over my body. Both arms and legs are covered with itchy (itchy!) red dots. And I've barely been in the sun so you can imagine the heat.

Short boring camera update for those who give a shit:
As you might know my camera died on me a couple of weeks ago, and they couldn't fix it in Antigua (one of the bigger cities). Well they could but it was gonna take at least five weeks and cost up to $400. Not gonna happen. Instead I consulted my good friend google who told me how to fix it. Four dollars later I had fixed it myself. For about a week it was working but a couple of days ago it died again. Once again I've fixed it but I don't know how long it'll last. Will look for a new camera body in Belize City because this isn't very realiable.

Well, my frappuccino is finished, Bob Marley is now playing "Redemption song" and it's time for me to go back to the hostel before happy hour starts. Yah man.

Friday, May 20, 2011

Did someone say diarrhea?


...Aaand I stopped questioning why I always get diarrhea from eating street food.

Sunday, May 1, 2011

Everybody's talking about smoked champagne

Lanquin, Guatemala

Just got back from two hours of drinking beer and tubing down the river. Such an awesome and chill day! It's days like these I realize how lucky I am to be doing this. And it makes me wonder why I ever would be leaving...

I'm staying at a beautiful lodge in the middle of the jungle. It's the first time I'm staying at a hostel in more than six weeks now, since I've been living with families or friends. It's located in a valley and the stunning view of the surrounding mountains and the river almost has a meditative and soothing impact on you. There really is a special atmosphere here and even just taking a shower is a spiritual experience.

Yesterday we went on a fullday tour to Semuc Champey. (Not to be confused with smoked champagne). The tour started with a voluntary jump into the river from a swing. Of course I managed to land on my back which is still sore. After that we entered the Semuc Champey caves which turned out to be my favorite part of the tour. We swam, climbed, jumped and waded through the caves with nothing but a candle each. It was unlike everything I've ever done before. Also saw a couple of bats in there. As we entered the caves one guy started exploring right away, he slowly put his candle up a hole in the "roof" of the cave and two bats flew out and nearly made that poor guy shit his pants. Fun times. I obviously wanted to make reference jokes to Ace Ventura constantly but no one understood and it made me miss my little brother. "Guano... Collect the whole set!"

After the caves our guide took us to a bridge crossing the river which we apparently were supposed to jump from. As if the swing wasn't enough I obviously had to do the 10 meter jump from the bridge as well. This time I landed on my stomach which is, if possible, even more sore than my back. I can't believe I did it though, and I'm quite proud.

After lunch we entered the national park of Semuc Champey. We walked for about 20 min uphill to get to the mirador (viewpoint) from where you could see the natural pools. Definitely one of the most beatiful natural wonders I've ever seen. Then we walked back down and spent about an hour swimming around in the turquoise water. Heavenly!

Everything isn't just heavenly though. Something has happened to my baby, my SLR camera, it's not working which is a bit (extremely!) depressing. I can turn it on and look at pictures and change settings but when I try to take a picture it says "Error. Press shutter release button again". I might have to go back to Antigua to try to fix it. (Meaning another eight hours on that horrible shuttle). Worst case scenario I'll have to buy a new one. I googled it and it seems to be a pretty common problem though, so hopefully I'll get it fixed. I can't travel without it! It's like I've lost my best travel buddy ever. Sad times.

In the meantime (or should I say mean times) here are some photos taken with my crappy camera.





Zephyr Lodge


Our lovely dorm! Q35 a night (about $4,50 and 30 kr)


View from the showers


Very confident before jumping off the bridge.


No dogs, guns or beer in the national park, please.



Team Zephyr at the mirador



Team Scandinavia!


I wouldn't mind having this view every time I brush my teeth


Awesome breakfast! I know it looks more like frozen chicken fillet, but it's actually pancakes filled with delicious fruit!


Little hostel kittie eating papaya. (I WANT TO STEAL YOU!)


We sell phone cards, pork and medicin. What more could you need?